1. Diagnosis: Is the sword still safe?
Before you start, you need to assess whether the blade is repairable:
Gradual bending: This is easy to fix.
Sharp kink: If there's a clear 'kink' in the steel, the internal structure is damaged. Stop in this case. The steel has weakened here and will likely snap at this point during future use.
No heat: Never use a torch or paint stripper. Heat ruins the heat treatment (hardening) of the sword, causing the steel to soften and lose its spring.
2. Straightening: The cold technique
The goal is to gradually bend the blade back in the opposite direction.
The setup: Use a sturdy workbench or vise. Important: Always place wooden blocks (e.g. oak or beech) between the vise and the sword to prevent scratches and dents.
The leverage method: Use a sturdy wooden beam with a slot (groove) that fits precisely over the blade. This distributes the force over a larger surface area.
Work in stages: Secure the blade, gradually apply pressure with the beam, remove the blade and check the line. Don't force it. Bend the steel just slightly past the line (because it springs back), but be careful: bending back and forth too many times causes metal fatigue.
3. Sanding: Repairing the damage
After bending, light surface damage or scratches may be visible.
Sanding: Start with grit 120 or 180 if there are deep scratches, and work gradually up to 240, 400 and 600.
Technique: Always use a sanding block. If you hold the paper with your fingers, you'll sand divots into the blade.
Direction: Sand exclusively in the length direction of the sword. Cross scratches are very difficult to remove and detract from the appearance of the steel.
4. Polishing: The finish
Polishing closes the pores of the steel and restores its shine.
Polishing paste: Use quality steel polishing paste on a soft cloth or leather block.
Finishing: Polish by hand to maintain maximum control and prevent rounding the edges of the blade. Work through until you have an even finish that matches the rest of the blade.
Workshop checklist
Make sure you have the following items on hand:
[ ] Vise with wooden protective blocks.
[ ] Wooden beam with slot (as leverage).
[ ] Sandpaper (set from 120 to 600 grit).
[ ] Polishing paste and a leather cloth/block.
[ ] weapon oil or beeswax (Essential!).
Expert tip: After sanding and polishing, the steel is 'bare' and very rust-prone. Thoroughly clean the blade after finishing with isopropanol (alcohol) to remove all sanding debris and immediately apply a thin layer of weapon oil over the entire blade. This creates the necessary barrier against oxidation.
