In the 16th century, clothing became a visual battlefield for religion and status. While Protestant thinkers like Calvin advocated for black, sober fabrics, Catholic courts and mercenary armies used colour and texture to project their power.
The Influence of the Reformation
- Protestant Sobriety: Under the influence of Martin Luther and Johannes Calvin, bright colours and unnecessary luxuries (such as jewels) were banned in many regions. Clothing became a sign of personal religious conviction.
- Catholic Splendour: At the courts of the Tudors and Habsburgs, gold brocade and silk remained standard, though Spanish influence halfway through the century also brought a shift towards a pious, black-oriented palette here.
Torso: From Shirt to Peascod Belly
In the 16th century, the shirt (camicia) was no longer merely underwear. It became a crucial part of the presentation.
- The Shirt & Slashing: It became fashionable to deliberately slash the outer layers of clothing (doublets), so that the white or coloured fabric of the shirt could puff through. This reached an extreme peak with the German Landsknechts.
- The Doublet: This tight jacket formed the core of the outfit. Later in the period, the peascod belly emerged: a doublet that was padded at the front to create a bulge, which was considered very masculine at the time.
Legs: The Rise of Puffed Trousers
The joined hose from the late Middle Ages gave way to new, voluminous shapes.
- Puffed Trousers (Pluderhosen): Imported from Spain and made popular throughout Europe. These trousers often consisted of strips of fabric with contrasting lining puffing out between them.
- The Codpiece (Braguette): In this period, the codpiece reached its largest. It was a separate piece fastened with laces and often richly decorated or padded.
Head and Feet: Width over Height
Where the 15th century was vertical (pointed shoes, tall hats), the 16th century was horizontal.
- Broad-toed Shoes: The pointed shoe was definitely a thing of the past. Instead, one wore the "cow's mouth" or broad-toed shoe with an extremely wide, square toe.
- French Bonnet & Beret: The nobility wore flat, often black berets decorated with ostrich feathers. The lower classes wore woollen berets or caps.
Accessories: Status at the Belt
- The Rapier & Bandolier: For the first time, wearing a civilian sword (the rapier) became an integral part of everyday fashion for the bourgeoisie and nobility.
- Jewellery: In England, earrings became a rage for men (think of Shakespeare or Sir Walter Raleigh). Heavy chains and rings also remained essential to display wealth.
The Common Man: Craft and Labour
Although they didn't wear the silk of the nobility, craftsmen and wealthy farmers followed the trends from afar. Their clothing was made of sturdy wool or linen in natural shades (ochre, brown, green).
- The Doublet Vest: Instead of a full doublet, working men often wore a sleeveless vest over their shirt for greater freedom of movement.
- Clogs & Pattens: While the nobility wore pattens to preserve their luxury shoes, the rural farmer wore wooden clogs as a cheap "safety shoe".
Tips for Your Outfit
- Layers: The richer your character, the more layers (shirt, doublet, vest, cape).
- Volume: Don't forget the puff in the sleeves and trousers. Use padding if necessary for the right silhouette.
- Contrast: Use contrasting colours under your "slashes" for that true Renaissance effect.
