1. Diagnosis: Why is there play in it?
The crossguard sits clamped between the sword blade and the handle. Play usually occurs because of:
Wood shrinkage: When a wooden handle has dried out, the wood becomes shorter, causing the pressure on the crossguard to disappear.
Wear: The hole in the crossguard has become larger through intensive use compared to the metal tang (the 'tang').
2. The method per sword type
Method A: Screwed pommel (Often found on decorative models)
With a screwed pommel you can easily disassemble the sword.
Disassemble: Turn the pommel at the end of the handle loose. Slide the handle and the crossguard off the tang.
Shimming: Is the hole in the crossguard too loose? Cut a very thin metal plate (e.g., a piece of brass or tin) and fit it as a 'ring' or 'shim' that fills the space around the tang.
Correct the wood: Has the handle shrunk? Add a thin leather ring or an extra wooden filler piece between the crossguard and the handle.
Assembly: Slide everything back and turn the pommel firmly tight. Optionally use a drop of threadlocker (Loctite) on the screw thread of the pommel to prevent it from vibrating loose in the future.
Method B: Peened pommel (Often found on functional models)
With a peened pommel, the tang is flattened on the pommel. This is a permanent connection; you cannot simply disassemble it.
The 'Wedge' method: Because you cannot disassemble, you must relieve the play from the outside.
Metal wedges: Use very thin, wedge-shaped pieces of metal (such as a feeler gauge or a thin steel shim). Gently tap these into the gap between the crossguard and the tang with a small hammer.
Fixation: When the crossguard is rock-solid again, you can subtly fill the visible openings around the wedges with a small amount of two-part epoxy adhesive (in the color of the metal if possible).
Drying: Let this cure completely for 24 hours. The adhesive ensures that the wedges cannot shift and protects against oxidation in the gap.
Checklist for your workshop
[ ] Metal plates or feeler gauges (for making shims or wedges).
[ ] Metal files (to make the shims fit exactly).
[ ] Two-part epoxy adhesive (for permanent fastening).
[ ] Leather strips (for filling shrinkage space in wooden handles).
[ ] Threadlocker (only for screwed pommels).
Expert tip: Prevent wood shrinkage in the future by not storing your sword in extremely dry rooms, such as directly next to a heater. Natural materials like wood need stable humidity to maintain their shape.
How do I repair a loose pommel?
1. Diagnosis: Why is the pommel loose?
With screwed pommels: The screw thread is worn or has come loose due to vibrations (during use).
With peened pommels: The wood of the handle has shrunk due to dryness, causing the pommel to no longer press tightly against the handle and 'rattles'.
Wear of the tang: The tang (the steel running through the handle) can be worn, causing the connection to no longer close properly.
2. The method per sword type
Method A: Screwed pommel
This type is relatively easy to repair because the connection is detachable.
Clean: Turn the pommel completely loose. Clean the screw thread of both the pommel and the tang with a steel brush and some alcohol (isopropanol) to remove grease residue.
Locking: Use a drop of threadlocker (such as Loctite, medium/blue type) on the screw thread. This fills microscopic play and prevents the pommel from vibrating loose again.
Tighten: Turn the pommel firmly tight. Note: do not turn with brute force, but until it is 'tight' in the desired position.
Fill wood shrinkage: If the pommel is tight, but play remains between the handle and the pommel, there is probably shrinkage in the handle. Add a thin leather ring or a metal 'shim' to the base of the pommel before you tighten it.
Method B: Peened pommel
With a peened pommel, the end of the tang is flattened on the pommel. This is a fixed connection. If it comes loose, the rivet (the 'peen') has often come loose due to wood shrinkage.
Fill: Because you cannot simply "tighten" the rivet, you must increase the pressure on the handle.
Leather filler ring: The most aesthetic and effective method is to add a paper-thin ring of stiff leather between the pommel and the end of the handle. This acts as a sort of 'spring' that pushes the pommel tight against the handle again.
Epoxy injection (If necessary): If there is play inside the handle, you can try injecting a small amount of thin, liquid epoxy adhesive under the pommel into the space between the handle and the pommel. Let this cure for 24 hours.
Re-peening (Advanced users only): If the pommel really rattles, the rivet itself is too loose. This requires carefully 'tapping' the rivet with a ball hammer. Careful: If you do this without proper support on the other side, you can damage the pommel or the handle.
Checklist for your workshop
[ ] Threadlocker (medium strength) for screwed models.
[ ] Stiff leather (for rings) to fill shrinkage in wooden handles.
[ ] Two-part epoxy adhesive for internal fixation.
[ ] Ball hammer and anvil (only for re-peening peened pommels).
Expert tip: A sword that 'rattles' should not be used for cutting tests or exercises. Those vibrations travel through the blade and can lead to unexpected breaks or damage to your wrists. Always make sure the connection feels 'dead' (rock-solid) before you pick up the sword.
