The 17th century brought major changes. Religious conflict and scientific discoveries made their way into the wardrobe. While the early 17th century was still dominated by the stiff Spanish style, after 1650 we saw the rise of looser, more luxurious French fashion.
A Changing Worldview
- Trade & Material: New trade routes made cotton from India more accessible to the elite, though wool and linen remained the backbone of European dress.
- Religious Signature: Clothing was a direct extension of one's faith. The soberness of the Reformed Church (often black with white linen) stood in sharp contrast to the colourful silk of the Catholic aristocracy.
Torso: From Doublet to Justacorps
Throughout the 17th century, the upper body underwent a real metamorphosis.
- The Doublet & the Jerkin: In the early 17th century, the doublet remained popular, often worn with a sleeveless leather jerkin (vest) over it for extra protection and status.
- The Justacorps: Around 1660, the justacorps appeared: a long, fitted overcoat that came down to the knees. This garment is the direct ancestor of the modern suit jacket.
- The Pirate Shirt: For sailors and labourers, a loose linen shirt was essential. It offered freedom of movement and was cool in the tropics.
Accessories & Headwear: The Power of the Brim
In this period, the hat became an indispensable status symbol, especially for military personnel and people of rank.
- The Broad-Brimmed Hat: The iconic hat of musketeers and privateers. These felt or leather hats had a wide brim, often turned up on one side and decorated with ostrich feathers.
- The Millstone Collar vs. the Falling Collar: The stiff, round collars of the late 16th century gave way after 1630 to softer, flat lace collars that fell over the shoulders.
- Wigs & Facial Hair: Where the early 17th century was the time of pointed beards and moustaches, facial hair almost completely disappeared by the end of the century in favour of the gigantic allonge wig.
Legs & Feet: Pumpkin Breeches and Heels
- The Evolution of Breeches: Pumpkin breeches became less extreme during the century and evolved into the culotte: a knee-length breeches worn with stockings.
- High Heels & Boots: High heels were the ultimate symbol of masculinity and status in the 17th century. Musketeer boots with large cuffs protected the legs while riding.
Weaponry as Fashion: The Rapier
No outfit was complete without a weapon. The rapier, worn on a richly decorated bandolier (shoulder strap), was the sign of a gentleman.
- Bandolier: A wide leather strap over the shoulder to carry the weight of the sword.
- Civil Weapons: For the lower classes, clotted daggers and cap swords were more common for daily use and self-defence.
Tips for Your 17th-Century Look
- Play with the Collar: The transition from a stiff collar to a soft lace collar immediately determines whether your outfit looks "early" or "late" 17th century.
- Belts: In the 17th century, belts became wider. A sturdy pirate belt or shoulder bandolier gives that rugged character right away.
- Headwear: A sailor isn't complete without a cap or headscarf, while a musketeer would never forget his feathered hat.
