Chainmail shirts were the backbone of European armour for more than 2000 years. Whether you want to portray a Celtic warrior, a Viking or a 15th-century knight: the right type of chainmail determines the authenticity of your outfit.
Quick Selection Guide
Antiquity (Celts/Romans): Go for a Lorica Hamata (with pauldrons).
Early Middle Ages (Vikings/Saxons): Choose a Hauberk (long) or haubergeon (short)
High Middle Ages (Crusaders): Long Hauberk with integrated coif and mittens.
Late Middle Ages (Plate Armour era): Haubergeon (short) or loose Voiders (chainmail pieces).
The Evolution: Which model belongs to which period?
1. Antiquity: The Lorica Hamata
The Celts probably invented the chainmail shirt around the 3rd century BCE. The Romans adopted this design and called it the Lorica Hamata. You can recognize this model by the extra shoulder caps that are fastened with a chest hook. The extra pauldrons provided additional protection to body parts not covered by large shields. They were derived from the pauldrons on the linothorax.
Choice: Look for a riveted model with pauldrons and rings from 6 mm to 8 mm.
Use unrivetted chainmail rings as a cheaper alternative
2. Early Middle Ages: The Vikings & Saxons
In this period, the chainmail shirt was a status symbol; only the wealthiest warriors could afford it. The Vikings called it a Brynja. The shirts were often half-length (Haubergeon) or long (Hauberk).
Underclothing: There is no evidence for a gambeson in this period; warriors probably wore multiple layers of thick wool.
3. The Battle of Hastings & The Crusades
On the Bayeux Tapestry (1066) we see the Norman knights in long Hauberks with a split in the middle to allow horse riding. The coif was often attached directly to the hauberk. From the 12th century onwards, the loose chainmail coif became more popular and people began wearing the Gambeson (padded tunic) to cushion the impact.
Wear the hauberk over the gambeson
Attach the chainmail coif and chainmail mittens, muffs with leather straps to the hauberk.
4. Late Middle Ages: Supplements
From the 14th century onwards, plate steel increasingly replaced chainmail. Full shirts became too heavy to wear under armour. People switched to Haubergeon (a short chainmail shirt) or Voiders/Goussets: loose pieces of chainmail that you sew onto the gambeson to protect only the armpits and elbows, openings in armour.
Construction: Riveted vs. Unrivetted
Historically, chainmail shirts were always riveted. The rings were closed with a small nail to prevent a sword point or arrow from simply bending the rings open.
Riveted (Re-enactment): Essential for historical accuracy. Flat or round rings with round rivets or mixed riveted are the standard.
15th century reenactment: In the 15th century, wedge-shaped rivets developed
Unrivetted (LARP/Fantasy): The rings are only pinched closed. This is much cheaper, but historically less accurate and less sturdy.
Mixed riveted: this technique was already used in antiquity. Not every ring needs to be riveted if a mix of closed rings and rings closed with rivets is used.
Ring Types and Mobility
A chainmail shirt weighs an average of 7 to 15 kg. Although this sounds heavy, it hardly limits your mobility. With a belt around your waist, you distribute the weight over your hips instead of just your shoulders.
Round rings: Universal for almost any period.
Flat rings: Very popular from the 11th century onwards.
Unrivetted rings: considerably cheaper than riveted rings
Aluminium: Ideal for theatre or film. It looks like steel but weighs almost nothing. Not suitable for historical combat!
Aluminium & rubber: this has the advantages of aluminium and combines them with stretchy rubber rings making the chainmail shirt as stretchy as regular clothing.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
What do I wear underneath? Historically, a Gambeson is essential. The chainmail shirt stops the blade of the sword, but the gambeson absorbs the impact. Without padding, you still risk broken bones and bruises.
How do I choose the right size? Always take your underclothing into account. Measure your chest circumference while wearing your gambeson and add at least 10-15 cm for the necessary freedom of movement.
Summary for the Buyer
Antiquity: Choose a Lorica Hamata.
Viking/Early Medieval: Long hauberk, often unrivetted spring steel or riveted round.
Knight (13th-15th century): Haubergeon or Voiders, preferably riveted flat rings.
LARP/Events: Unrivetted mild steel or aluminium for optimal comfort.
