The pourpoint was a late 14th-century fashionable jacket that developed from the gambeson. Around this time, the gambeson increasingly followed the contours of the body, allowing it to be worn snugly under armour pieces.
Originally, the pourpoint was quilted, but soon this garment expressed the chivalry and martial prowess of its wearer. The pourpoint became a real fashion accessory worn by aristocrats in everyday life.
The pourpoint marked a major shift in Western European fashion.
This garment meant people moved away from the angular, boxy clothing of the high Middle Ages.
The 14th century saw a real sexual revolution sparked by the biblical Song of Songs and romances about courtly love.
The pourpoint replaced traditional tunics and emphasized the male form. This was comparable to the Cotte, which emphasized the female form. Already in the 15th century, the pourpoint fell out of fashion. It was replaced by the doublet, another garment that emerged from armour development.
Reuse of the word
The word "pourpoint" was later also used for a women's garment in the 16th century.
In an inventory of the wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots at Chartley Castle in 1586, written in French, fifteen "pourpoints" are listed.
They were made from satin, taffeta and canvas.
In later clothing lists, these garments were described as doublets.
How to wear a pourpoint
Both the arming pourpoint and the garment were worn in the late 14th century. But you wear both in a different context.
Wear the arming pourpoint under your armour and the regular pourpoint to impress at court.
How to wear the arming pourpoint
The arming pourpoint is essentially a fashionable gambeson. Some models close with laces but most are fastened with buttons.
Unlike the later arming doublet, the arming pourpoint doesn't have arming points, tabs to attach armour pieces. Of course, you can sneak those on if you want!
Arming pourpoints are ideal to wear under late 14th-century plate armour such as Churburg-style harnesses. They were worn with helmets like the klappvizier and early dog-snout bascinet.
How to style a pourpoint
Hose
Pourpoints were worn during a period when hose were still very much in fashion. You could even attach these hose to the pourpoint, which inspired the idea of arming points on later doublets.
Under the hose, one wore chausses. This custom originated at the end of the early Middle Ages.
Turnshoes
Turnshoes remained popular but pointed shoes can also be worn.
Medieval shirt
A shirt can be worn under the pourpoint. These essentially developed from earlier undershirts.
Houpelande
A houpelande can be worn over the pourpoint. This elegant type of jacket was sometimes even worn over plate armour. This garment developed around 1360.
Coif
From the early 14th century, the coif was worn as a headdress, with the original face opening pulled over the top of the head. This style only became hugely popular in the second half of the 15th century, but coifs were already worn this way in the late 14th century.
Kidney pouch and dagger
As a finishing touch, don't forget to include a belt, kidney pouch and roundel dagger or codpiece dagger. Medieval European cities had dangerous alleyways and you always had to be able to defend yourself.
Tip. Attach the kidney pouch and dagger together, so you have a package, and if robbers ask for your pouch then you draw the dagger.
Internal links
- Arming Doublet: quilted armour jacket from the 15th century
- Gambeson: medieval quilted armour and protection
- Jerkin: 16th-17th century leather men's jacket and body protection
- Doublet: fitted gentleman's jacket 14th–17th century
Sources:
- Best Surviving Example: The Pourpoint of Charles de Blois (ca. 1364), housed in the Musée des Tissus in Lyon. This is the cornerstone for the grand assiette sleeve construction.
