Quick Facts About Roman Clothing
Basic: The tunic was the universal garment for every rank.
Adaptation: In colder regions (such as the Netherlands and Britain), soldiers adopted trousers and socks from the "barbarians".
Material: Primarily wool and linen; silk was only for the very wealthy.
- Status: Accessories and the length of the tunic indicated rank and citizenship status.
Head and Neck: Comfort Under Iron
Wearing a bronze helmet directly on the skull is painful and dangerous. That's why soldiers wore soft padding underneath.
Pilos (Cap): A felt cap worn under the helmet. It acted as a shock absorber to prevent concussions from blows to the helmet.
- Focale (Scarf): Perhaps the most important accessory for a soldier's health. This scarf prevented the sharp edges of the lorica hamata (chainmail shirt) or segmentata (segmented armour) from chafing the neck raw.
The Body: The Tunic and the Cloak
The tunic was the foundation of Roman fashion, but the military version was shorter and more practical than the civilian variant.
The Military Tunic: Soldiers wore their tunic just above the knee. A longer tunic was seen as impractical for combat and even as "unmanly".
Colour Use: Although modern imagery often shows red, legionaries also wore white (undyed wool), ochre, yellow, brown and blue.
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Sagum & Paenula (Cloaks): * The Sagum was a rectangular woollen cloth, fastened with a brooch (fibula), often worn by officers.
The Paenula was a heavy, half-round cloak with a hood, ideal against the rain and a favourite with the common soldier.
The Legs: Breaking the Trouser Taboo
For a city-dwelling Roman, trousers were something for barbarians. But on the Rhine or the Danube, that opinion changed quickly.
Braccae (Trousers): Initially, these short trousers (reaching just below the knee) were worn discreetly under the tunic. As time went on, wearing trousers became accepted and even fashionable in the army.
Leg Wrappings: For extra warmth, soldiers wrapped woollen strips around their lower legs, similar to later puttees or Viking wrappings.
The Feet: Caligae and Socks
The legendary Roman marches were only possible thanks to superior footwear.
Caligae (Sandals): These robust military sandals had thick soles studded with iron nails (clavi). This provided grip on muddy ground and meant the soles wore less quickly.
Socks in Sandals: Yes, the Romans did it too. In colder provinces such as Britain, there is plenty of evidence (including from Vindolanda) that soldiers wore woollen socks in their caligae to prevent frostbite.
Transition to Calcei: From the 2nd century AD onwards, open sandals in the north were replaced by the Calcei, a fully closed leather shoe that provided more warmth.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Did all legionaries wear red?
No. There was no official regulation prescribing red. Colours depended on the available dyes in the region and the personal preference of the unit or officer.
Why were trousers forbidden in the city of Rome?
The trouser was seen as the symbol of the enemy (Celts and Germans). Wearing them was considered by conservative emperors as a loss of Roman identity.
How did soldiers keep their clothes clean?
Soldiers washed their clothing in camps, often with urine (due to the ammonia) to remove stains, after which they were thoroughly rinsed.
Internal Links:
The clothing of the legionary was the perfect mix between Roman tradition and barbarian practicality. Want to learn more about the armour worn over this clothing, such as the Lorica Segmentata?
Caligae: The Roman military sandals that conquered the world
The Roman Military Belt: Symbol of the Warrior
Male Fashion in the High Middle Ages (1066-1300)
Spinning wool in Roman times: women and technique
In the 1st century, trousers were absolutely not worn by Roman townspeople. Instead, the lower legs, and possibly also the upper legs, were wrapped with woollen strips that were secured at the top and bottom with laces. It is quite possible that around this time leg wrappings (known to the Vikings as winingas) made their entrance. Possibly these were in some cases also attached to the upper legs, as a satire by Juvenalis (satire 6.263) seems to describe.
