Quick Facts About the Subarmalis
Shape: Sleeveless or short-sleeved quilted vest, often fitted with strips (pteryges).
Users: Nearly all ranks, from ordinary legionaries to high officers and generals.
Material: Layers of linen, wool, felt or leather.
- Function: Absorbing blows, preventing chafing and increasing the wearing comfort of heavy armour.
Introduction
In the Roman army, wearing armour was an essential part of protection. What's less well-known is that almost always protective underclothing was worn underneath: the subarmalis or the thoracomachus.
These quilted garments played a crucial role. They formed the necessary bridge between the hard metal of the armour and the soldier's body, increasing both safety and endurance on the battlefield.
What is a Subarmalis?
The term subarmalis derives from the Latin sub (under) and armus (shoulder), literally meaning "clothing worn under the shoulder." Although the name is rare in ancient texts, countless sculptures and archaeological finds prove that this garment was widespread.
Protection Against Impact and Chafing
Although armours such as chainmail shirts were highly effective against cuts and stab wounds, they offered little protection against the force of a blow. The subarmalis worked as a kind of shock absorber, similar to a medieval gambeson. It could dampen the impact of strikes and at the same time prevent loose metal parts, such as rings from a chainmail shirt, from causing wounds.
An East-Roman military author from the late-Roman period (possibly Justasianus) stated that the armour should not be worn directly over ordinary clothing, but over a special garment that was at least one finger thick. This shows that the subarmalis had to be at least 1 to 2 cm thick – enough to provide protection and comfort.
The Thoracomachus: An Alternative Name?
The term thoracomachus is extremely rare and appears in only a few specific sources. In this context, it is described as a protective garment made of felt and leather. Most modern researchers agree that the thoracomachus and the subarmalis actually refer to the same type of functional underclothing, with the focus always on reducing direct damage from the armour to the wearer.
Use and Rank Within the Army
The subarmalis was worn by nearly all ranks, but the design varied greatly depending on status:
Legionaries and Auxilia: Wore simple versions made of linen or leather, functional and without adornment.
Centurions and Signiferi: Their subarmales were often richly decorated with double rows of pteryges (protective strips) on the shoulders and hips.
Legates and Generals: Wore the most luxurious variants, often with three rows of pteryges, decorative fringes and sometimes even metal plates.
Drawbacks: Heat and Ventilation
Although the subarmalis was essential for safety, the thick material caused poor air circulation. Especially in warm climates, overheating was a greater risk than the weight of the armour itself. Some soldiers therefore chose to leave off the subarmalis, despite military handbooks strictly advising against it.
Archaeological and Visual Sources
Because textile and leather rarely survive the ravages of time, we rely on sculpture for our understanding of the subarmalis:
Gravestone of Marcus Favonius Facilis: Shows a centurion with a clearly visible row of pteryges beneath his armour.
Julian Basilica (Corinth): Here, images of high officers have been found wearing very detailed subarmalis clothing with multiple layers of decorative strips.
In modern re-enactment, these pieces are reconstructed with layers of linen and wool filling to replicate the authentic thickness and protection factor of the Roman originals.
Summary
The subarmalis and thoracomachus were the unsung heroes of Roman equipment. They provided necessary cushioning against bone-breaking blows and made it possible to comfortably wear kilograms of metal for hours on end. Whether it was a simple linen version for a foot soldier or a richly decorated leather variant for a general; this garment formed the essential connection between man and machine.
Internal Links
The Lorica Hamata: The Indestructible Roman Chainmail Shirt
Lorica Segmentata & Manica: Roman Plate Armour
Linothorax in Antiquity: Function, History and Characteristics
Gambeson: Medieval Quilted Armour and Protection
