In the early 15th century, armours were in full development. Around this time, the Milanese style was widely in use. The long mail hauberk had made way for the haubergeon, which reached down to the thighs.
Around this time, the arming doublet made its entrance. This short quilted doublet was derived from the arming pourpoint.
The arming doublet offered a solid basic foundation on which late medieval armour could be attached, for example by means of laces (aiglaits). The tight fit also gave the body a powerful, warlike appearance, which is why unquilted variants were soon also worn in everyday life by civilians.
Some variants had extra mail supplements attached directly to the doublet, in vulnerable areas such as the armpits and elbows, something that became especially common in the 15th century.
Regional differences were clearly visible: German gothic armours used shorter arming doublets, while the Milanese armour style had longer models that could fall down to the upper leg.
Aiglaits
The late 14th century pourpoint had aiglaits at the bottom to which chausses were attached in everyday life. This technique was adopted in the arming doublet, allowing plate armour and mail components to be fastened directly to the quilted doublet.
When putting on the armour, the wearer had to work in a fixed sequence — starting at the feet and working upwards — so that the metal plates overlapped properly.
The construction ensured that blows that would otherwise be fatal were deflected along the surface. Even then, vulnerable spots such as the elbows, knees and neck remained dangerous, which is why those areas got moving attachment points that allowed some play.
This allowed someone to move without the armour coming loose. This whole system of arming points made the functionality of plate armour in the late Middle Ages largely possible.
Doublet in civilian fashion
From the late 15th century onwards, the arming doublet even evolved into civilian fashion in Italy, with wearing it suggesting status and chivalrous elegance.
Around this time, arming doublets were usually no longer quilted because wearing the mail skirt as separate body armour had been phased out. This made it unnecessary to wear a quilted underarmour.
The most distinctive difference between a doublet and an arming doublet remained the arming points, which continued to be used well into the 17th century.
How do I wear my arming doublet
Wear an arming doublet over a medieval shirt and trousers. In the period in which the arming doublet developed, chausses gradually went out of fashion and tight trousers became more popular.
Over the arming doublet you can optionally wear a mail haubergeon, or additional mail protection such as a skirt (gousset) and voiders at the armpits. Combine the arming doublet with plate armour and fasten the armour pieces with laces to the doublet.
Internal links
- Pourpoint: medieval jacket and armour lining
- Gambeson: medieval quilted armour and protection
- Doublet: fitted men's jacket 14th–17th century
- Munition armour: Mass production of armours 15th–17th century
Sources:
- Primary Source: The Hastings Manuscript (How a Man Shall be Armed, ca. 1450), which describes step by step how a knight puts on his arming doublet and attaches the plate armour to it via lacing points.
