Introduction
The armour of a knight (or man-at-arms) looked different throughout the Middle Ages. In this blog we'll take a look at the equipment of a Northern Italian man-at-arms in the early fifteenth century to help you choose your own outfit.
Throughout the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, there was a rise of mercenary armies in medieval Europe. Mercenaries were better trained and equipped, could fight year-round and could afford better equipment than traditional armies made up of temporary, feudal soldiers. They were much more expensive though and often plundered the lands where they were stationed. Long-lasting conflicts like the Hundred Years' War between England and France were largely fought by expensive mercenary armies, who often made up a large portion of the heavy infantry and men-at-arms on the battlefield.
This new form of warfare led to high costs that could only be afforded by a few. In Italy, this led to the rise of new city-states and republics that were rich enough to hire mercenary armies. The rise of great rivals like Venice and Genoa had created a kind of cold war between two major alliances in Northern Italy in the late fourteenth century. This would break out into hot war in 1423, in the form of the Lombard Wars between the Republic of Venice and the Duchy of Milan. These wars would divide Northern Italy into several major power blocs, which emerged from the patchwork of individual city-states that had existed before. The arms race between the alliances that fought in them led to the development of the characteristic 'Milanese' plate armour.
Armour Developments
In the transition to the fifteenth century, plate armour began to develop further. It could now gradually also be worn on its own, without full chainmail shirt. A good example of armour development in this period is the Churburg S18 armour from Churburg Castle in Northern Italy.
Weak spots in armours were increasingly protected with articulating plate armour. Shoulder plates now also got 'besagews' for example, round plates to protect the armpits. In Northern Italy, 'white armour' gradually came into fashion, a style where the armour was no longer covered with fabric. This method of armour construction would later catch on in France, England and the Holy Roman Empire.
The breastplate had grown into a cuirass with a breast and backplate. Moveable plates (faulds) protected the lower belly and hips. The bascinet had grown into a helm with integrated neck protection, but also began to be replaced by early 'armets', helms with a complex hinged construction that fit more closely to the head. Gauntlets developed into a form that still offered individual finger protection, but was covered with a large steel plate that hung over the knuckles.
Fiore's Outfit
The year is 1423 and Fiore is a wealthy Northern Italian mercenary. He serves as a man-at-arms under the Doge of Venice in the war between his city and Milan. His weapons and clothing are paid for with his salary and he's happy to show off his martial character in the streets. In his career as a man-at-arms, Fiore is mainly after money, but feels some sympathy for his city. However, this isn't enough to give up his rich mercenary salary.
NB: This outfit is based on the aforementioned Churburg S18 armour from the period 1380-1420 in Churburg Castle in Northern Italy. Similar armours were worn by French, Burgundian and English knights in the Hundred Years' War, although distinct regional styles began to develop in this period.
Outfit
When Fiore isn't wearing his weapons and armour, he follows early fifteenth-century fashion. He wears a surcoat or his arming doublet, braies with leg hose, pointed shoes and a bycocket as a headpiece. He wears a pouch and dagger at his belt. He also wears a simple peasant ring he found on the battlefield as a good luck charm.
Hat and Cap
The Bycocket (also known as the type of hat worn by Robin Hood) was a popular headpiece in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. It was worn with or without a cap by serfs, citizens and nobility alike.
Surcoat
For special occasions, Fiore wears a surcoat in the heraldic colours of his family. This garment came from the tabard that knights wore over their armour in previous centuries to recognize each other on the battlefield, but in the fourteenth and early fifteenth century it was also worn on its own.
Much clothing in this period was also worn in a half-and-half colour pattern, also known as Mi-parti. This model surcoat is available in different halves, allowing you to mix and match colours yourself.
Undershirt
People preferred to wear bright colours, contrary to how this period is often depicted. If they could afford it, their clothing was richly decorated, but even without decoration, clothing in the Middle Ages was very expensive. By wearing an undershirt, it got less dirty from the body and the outer layer didn't need to be washed as often, so it also didn't fade as quickly.
Arming Doublet
In the fifteenth century, fashion changed from long, flowing garments to short, tight-fitting clothing. Men began to wear doublets, which ended at the hips and emphasized the chest and waist. Full-length breeches also began to come into fashion.
A gambeson provides a layer of quilted protection under mail and plate armour, but was worn on its own by poor soldiers. With the development of armour, thick gambesons became unnecessary for knights and they began to wear a thinner, lighter quilted variant that also fit with the fashion of the day, the so-called arming doublet. To this tight-fitting variant of the gambeson, armour pieces could be attached that fit closely to the body.
In Italy, the arming doublet was even worn as everyday clothing by citizens and non-military nobility to give a martial appearance, similar to wearing combat boots or camouflage clothing today. Fiore likes to show this off and wears his arming doublet in everyday life too.
Braies with Leg Hose
In the fourteenth and early fifteenth century, leg hose (chausses) were generally worn. These long stockings were attached to the braies (braies) and usually worn under long garments.
In this period there was also a gradual transition to full-length breeches. It's a personal choice whether to wear chausses or breeches, but later in the fifteenth century only breeches would be worn.
TIP: Leg hose and fifteenth-century breeches should fit snugly to the body. From the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, people often tied a string or leather cord under the knee to pull their breeches and hose tight and make them fit better on the legs. This is a matter of personal preference, but it's an easy way to add historical detail to your outfit.
Belt
People from all walks of society hung pouches and other items on their belts. When putting together your outfit, think about what you would find important to carry with you in your daily life as a knight, such as your cutlery but also your sword.
TIP: Medieval belts were extra long, often as a status symbol to show how much leather the wearer could 'afford' extra. To wear this kind of belt comfortably, people placed a small loop at the buckle that allowed the long belt end to hang down.
Shoes
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, men wore pointed shoes. Over time, the fashion trend became to make these increasingly longer and more pointed. On the battlefield, form followed function and the pointedness of shoes was much more modest, so you wouldn't trip over them during a fight.
Churburg S18 Armour
Fiore's Churburg S18 armour consists of a cuirass, a dog-snout bascinet, arm armour, shoulder plates with integrated armpit protection, hourglass gauntlets and full leg protection. He wears a bishop's mantle under his armour, but no chainmail shirt because he prefers it this way. Because of the development of plate armour in his time, he can afford to make this choice. He attaches his armour pieces to his arming jacket or arming doublet. This 15th century invention replaced the gambeson. Arming doublets can be quilted, but don't have to be. This doublet is quilted.
TIP: Throughout the Middle Ages, knights had squires or other servants who helped them put on their armour: plate armour was hardly ever made for the wearer to put on alone. We recommend asking someone to help you with fitting, dressing and adjusting your armour. Click here to read how to put on armour.
